3.07.2016

SUMMITING THE 2ND HIGHEST NON-VOLCANIC PEAK IN WA: MT STUART



Looking north upon Mt Stuart from Longs Pass

Awhile back i started my current occasional late night online meanderings of finding non-technical high elevation peaks in Washington State. To my joy I've found many of them through Summit Post. I'm not a rock climber as least not out in the wilderness. A rock gym is as close as i get to being a rock climber.
Too my amazement Mt Stuart is one of them. Sitting at 9,415 tall it's the 2nd tallest non-volcano peak underneath Bonanza Peak. It's also the seventh highest peak in Washington state. The north face and the south face are quite different. The north face is very steep with snowfields and glaciers and has all technical routes which make for great climbing. I actually ran into two rock climbers on the summit. They had just finished one of the famous routes which they said was among the top climbing routes they have ever climbed. 
The south face has no glaciers and very small snowfields and only requires scrabbling to the top.



Looking east up on Longs Pass

I remember looking at Stuart from Davis Peak and thinking that climbing it has to be technical. 
Now that I've climbed it I can speak for myself... it's not technical but dang is it tough and brutal. There are many areas where hands and feet are required at the same time. Along with areas where one needs to enjoy or conquer the fear of heights. I would definitely bring a helmet to protect oneself from falling rocks.
I climbed the summit in July but if you climb it in September you'll be able to see the golden larch trees in their full splendor.
I have heard of climbers making the summit climb in one day. But i must say two days will be what most climbers do especially if you want to enjoy the climb.
There's a great campsite just before the summit trail. 
If your a mountain climber Stuart is a must!!

Summit Post route info click here


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Looking up at the lower portion of the climbing route

Looking down the climbing route at 1/3 up the route

Taking a break looking south with Mt Rainier in the hazy distance

Looking South






Looking South again from near the summit


Looking north at Ice Cliff Glacier

There's always a beer waiting for a summit celebration



Looking West from the summit





Looking east upon Sherpa Peak, Argonaut Peak, and Colchuck Peak into the Enchantments




The nerdy me at the summit

Signing the summit log



Looking south

Looking back up to the summit