Grand Valley

Looking Southwest at Mt Olympus

Three weeks ago I became enamored with the majestic Grand Valley as I hiked through the area on my 42 mile trek. You can see my 4 posts for the whole backpacking throwdown, called 42 Miles 4 Passes in 4 Days.
Grand Valley is the perfect backpacking hangout trip. You will see why... read on! My best amigo and I ventured out to see what Grand Valley could offer us and we definitely came back with our noggins full of good memories!!
Thursday was a full day of work for me but 2pm finally rolled around. It seems that work days take longer when your leaving for a trip that same day.
I met my buddy in Shelton and off we drove arriving in Port Angeles about 6pm. After a stop by the Ranger station to pick up our wilderness permits we headed up to Hurricane Ridge.
Hurricane Ridge holds the visitor center with marvelous views of the Northern Olympics.

Looking south at Grand Pass area

The forest road to the trailhead starts at the beginning of Hurricane Ridge's parking lot. After winding up and down the forest road the trailhead appeared. It sits just below Obstruction Peak at about 6,000 . It was 7 pm and the sun almost had it's arms around the western Olympic mountains as i pulled the e-brake. I had hiked in the dark a couple times before but never as the sun set at 6,000 feet. Simply amazing!!! We started to hike and two girls followed suit with the same idea, or with the same issue of being late.

Views like these are mesmerizing

The first part of the hike treks along a ridge. After about  1 1/2 miles the trail starts to drop into Grand Valley. The sun was hiding behind the mountains at this point. Darkness was pressing in but we combated it with our trusty headlamps. Never ever forget headlamps. I've used my headlamp countless times unexpectedly as hiking never goes exactly as planned. We trudged on doing our best to stay ahead of the girls behind us!!! They weren't gonna pass us!!!!!!!!!!!!



Switchbacks guided us down off the ridge into the lake valley. The trail straightens for awhile as it became treed for the first time. Soon we came to a "y" and took a left up to Moose lake. We wandered around trying to find a nice campsite in the dark. We first came across a group site but decided to wait on it and find a single site. We looked and looked and came across a trail with a sign at the start. We hiked up to the trail and smelled something nasty. The trail came to a clearing in the trees and suddenly laying in front of us was the outhouse!!
We ended up setting up camp back at the group site. Dinner was tacos with pre-made taco meat. Delicous!!

Moose Lake Brook Trout

Morning woke us up as sunlight descended on our eyes. Breakfast was cranberry pancakes, my favorite. The deer smelled the salty bacon we cooked. Two families of deer circled around us finding our piss hole. They devoured everything growing in and around our hole. After breakfast we grabbed out trusty fishing poles and plopped them in Moose Lake. Instantly we had bites and the fish were flying everywhere. Rooster tails, wedding rings and spinners were all loved by the fish. I even threw out a fly on the end of my spin casting pole just to see what would happen. Instantly the brook trout darted up from the bottom, coming within inches of the fly then veering off.

Small but beautiful

The bite slowed, and we packed up camp and headed to Grand Lake, the bigger of the three lakes. Our backpacks plopped down as well as the lures sank into the lake. The action was less than Moose Lake but the fish were larger. All in all we caught 36 brook trout in 5 hours of fishing. Not bad huh!!!! All fish were released and we're hoping they will mature for next times casting.

Its what's for lunch!!

Between Moose and Grand lakes there's a river that flows from one lake to another. We decided to explore the river after hearing what sounded like a waterfall and knowing the elevation drop the trail held. As we waded into the thick brush we heard some movement coming from the brush 20 feet in front of us. We paused, listened and decided the brush was too thick for our fishing poles that we held in our hands. As we pulled out of the brush the commotion continued. We paused again as a young adult black bear meandered out from the brush 50 feet away from us. We stood and watched trying to take pics as he wandered behind a group of firs. No luck....no pic, but it's always exciting to see a bear so close!!! We headed back up the trail to Moose Lake warning other hikers to be aware of the bear!! It didn't feel right just letting other hikers find out on their own.

Guess who saw each other first?!!

After warning the others, we headed down to Grand Lake. We throw in our lures at the far western part of the lake where the a stream flows in. A deep pool existed on this side. A couple sat across the lake watching us as a young family with kids hiked in behind us. The father of the young family started asking me questions about how the fishing was going. Suddenly my pole bent and i jerked back reeling. All eyes were on me and i produced a nice brook trout. Its belly bright red with amazing purple and pink silver spots. The trout was the largest we caught about 10 to 11 inches. As i was holding up my prize fish for the young couple's kids to see and touch, i quickly realized this trout had sharp teeth. Letting go for one second i lost him and splash into the water he went. Embarrassed i finished talking with the couple but with no more bites after that.
Down to Badger creek we hiked. Before we reached the creek we came across a 10 foot waterfall on Grand Creek. Feeling like i needed a bath i jumped off the waterfall into the pool below. The pool ended up being only 4 feet deep, surprise! Still worth it though, as i cooled off.
Next we crossed badger creek and like its a perfect spot for a bear to hang out. No bears but headed up Badger Valley. The upper valley was pristine. Every time i hike through this valley i seems there's bear watching me. Yeah i know that weird but it seems  one stubborn marmot chirped nonstop! Leadership definitely requires boldness and persistence and I'm always amazed how marmot are a good example of this!!!
Our hike was coming to a close as Obstruction Peak appeared ahead of us. After completely the final switchbacks around the corner the parking lot jumped out at us. No matter how long the trail is the parking lot always brings joyous pleasure that home is close and the trail has been conquered. But soon again the following day the trailhead is never close enough until the e-brake is pulled again!

Badger Valley

 

Mount Olympus

Moose Lake

The View From The Trailhead

Sunset Hiking Is The Best

42 MILES 4 PASSES in 3 DAYS: Day 4

Looking southwest from Hurricane Ridge at Mt Olympus

Day 3, I slept in an extra hour as I was sleeping well!! Which I'm not always able to do while backpacking. With already 26 tiring miles behind my belt sleep came alot easier!
Last night at bedtime it rained. It was the only time on the trip it rainded. I was under cover for the night so the rain didn't dampen the night! The weather for the whole trip was lovely, partly cloudy with temps in the high seventies in the mountains!!
Breakfast was quick with no stove. Only three energy bars. After sleeping in I was an hour past my scheduled trail start time.
Leaving camp the skies were clear again and my camp friends, the retired couple, had already left. I had my longest mile trek in front of me, 16 miles!!!

South basin of Grand Pass

Once again my first task in front of me was hiking up a pass. 6,400 ft tall Grand Pass, with 2,300 feet to gain from camp. I didn't plan this as I planned a 4 day trip but was excited it workout this way! My first post, Day One, talks about why 4 days turned into 3 days. Gaining elevation the first part of the day is key, if you can, to long milage days.
Grand pass is mostly straight up with a small amount of switchbacks. Once up in the south basin wildflowers dominated with what seemed like a large marmot community. Piles of freshly cut herbaceous plants were nicely placed at the entrance of almost every marmot hole. Winter is coming!! No laziness here!!! I could definitely take some pointers!
Once on top of Grand Pass I passed my first fellow hikers of the day with many to come! 20 plus hikers were scene on my last day. 15 of them in Grand Valley alone which is not surprising. 

Grand Pass looking north

 
Grand valley is popular for several reasons. Its not far from Port Angeles, only 3.5 miles from the trailhead to the valley and hosts three lakes. I enjoyed the area so much on only a hike through that a month after this trek a friend and I spent a night in the valley. Which will be the topic of my next post!
The valley is almost pristine with Human activity evident throughout. Hence the reason why special wilderness permits are needed for overnight stay. Three lakes lay within the valley. Lake Gladys, Moose Lake and Grand Lake. If your staying the night them pick Lake Gladys for solitude.
I quickly hiked through the area! I finally saw my first large mammal, a deer. I was hoping for some bear or elk but nothing on this trip.
From the top of Grand Pass the trail was all downhill until I met up with Badger valley. No badgers either!! The upper section of badger valley boasts of beautiful meadows and like most of the Olympics, marmots can be seen.
At this point of the day I was starting to get very tired from my feet to my shoulders. My right shoulder which I had strained the day before was aching and my feet were very painful when I was off my feet. This made me push harder as hiking actually was less painful compared to resting on my hinnie or on foot!
I veered off Badger Valley trail to the cutoff trail that connects to the Hurricane Ridge trail. Again this was almost straight up. I felt like I could count the number of total switchbacks on two pair of hands for the whole trip!!

Looking down into Grand Valley with its lakes

After reaching the top of Hurricane Ridge it was all worth it!! With the Strait of Juan de Fuca straight to my north and the entire Olympic national park to the south. Snack time!! My favorite, green sour apple gummies!!
There's absolutely nothing like ridge hiking. The views always end up slowing me down and that's not a bad thing.
The sun was setting as low clouds were rising up through grand valley. The Strait and Port Angeles were already covered. Every 10 minutes the clouds moved higher as I hiked lower. At a moments notice we crossed paths as I suddenly laide in its misty swath! Soon I would be at my car, hoping and praying it would start!
The trek was over! It seemed so long and too short at the same time. My car started up and soon enough I was singing to the same song I on the drive up to the trailhead two days ago!!

The Needles from Hurricane Ridge

Train on Hurricane Ridge

The view from Hurricane Ridge

Heading up to Hurricane Ridge

Heading up to Grand Pass

Looking south at Cameron Basin

 

42 MILES 4 PASSES in 3 DAYS: Day 3

Continued from 42 MILES 4 PASSES in 3 DAYS: Day 2


Looking up from Gray Wolf Basin (7,060 ft)


Day 3 began at 7 am as daylight woke me up. The temperature was chilly but nothing long john's and a jacket couldn't take care off. I have never been able to jump right out of bed. Except when late for work!!! It's mandatory to lay for 10 minutes and enjoy the alpine scenery!! Overall my first night was warm and cozy as I slept most the night! Hiking 15 miles the day before helped!
Breakfast was hot and fast, Craisin Pancakes!!! Forget oatmeal, I needed something new! The day ahead of me held hiking over three passes, Gray Wolf Pass, Lost Pass and Cameron Pass. I aimed for 14 miles!

Wellesley Peak (6,758 ft) on the left

Breakfast and packing was finished by 8 am. Up to Gray Wolf Pass I headed which was less than a mile up. Gray Wolf Basin is amazingly beautiful. A cascading waterfall revealed itself on the right side of the trail. Reaching the top of the pass the view takes over. Mt Deception, Mount Mystery, Sentinel Peak , Hayden Pass, Wellesley Peak and Dosewallips Valley stared me down! The sun's beaming rays finally broke over the Needles (mountain ridge to my east) warming me from head to toe. I've always enjoyed camping at the bottom of a pass where good elevation is gained early in the morning when you have the most strength. Wildflowers were in full bloom on the trail down, where I hooked up with the Dosewallips trail. As I came to the "T" in the trail I came across a Park Ranger! We where both heading west up the trail towards Bear Camp. We hiked about two miles together. It's always great to meet people on the trail and hear their stories! Especially when you meet someone who has similar passions and has worked in the same industry!! The Park Ranger and I talked the whole two miles about backpacking and our similar careers.
I found an interesting fact about hikers on this three day trek. It seemed to me that the major difference between day hikers and backpackers (overnighters) was the fact that day hikers were less talkative and less friendly compared to backpackers. It think it goes to show how all people are social beings and after a certain time away from people we long for fellowship!! This is our commonwealth!!
Bear camp was being remodeled along with weed whacking along the Dosewallips trail! The Ranger explained that shelters can't be built anymore in National Parks but existing shelters can be preserved.


Sentinel Peak with Hayden Pass on the right

After parting ways with the Ranger at Bear Camp I continued east up to Dose Meadows Camp. Thanks to a tip by the Park Ranger I stopped about 1/2 mile up from Bear Camp to refresh in a deep river pool on the Dosewallips River! 1.7 miles later I spilled into Dose Meadows Camp.  This camp was amazing, but I couldn't stay the night! If your in this area I recommend staying here as the meadows are beautiful with a river in camp and Hayden Pass close by with its surrounding mountains staring at you!

I took a right onto Lost Pass trail or thought I did. I realized after a 1/2 hour that I was not on the trail and heading up to Hayden Pass instead. Therefore I decided to hike off trail and connect with Lost Pass trail. Yeah right! After 1 1/2 hours of not connecting with the trail, straining my shoulder by falling and becoming dirty by thick brush and trees I returned back to Dose Meadows where I found the trailhead! 
Lost Pass is extreme and goes straight up with little switchbacks! My body was starting to tire at this point! Once to the top, wildflowers surrounded me as far as the eye can see with dark purple lupine the most prominent flower. Even though my body was aching the surrounding wildflower and alpine views made all my aching feel well worth it!! This is why I love to backpack!!

Mount Cameron Ridge

Next the trail takes you from Lost Pass only to gain more elevation by climbing to 6,400 foot Cameron Pass. Cameron Pass was the most windy all four passes. Down through Cameron Basin I hiked to set up camp at an unknown campsite off the trail just before the Grand Pass trail junction. The only reason i found this primo campsite was by running into a retired couple. Their camp was already set up and as I said hello as I hiked by they suggested the campsite, which was behind there's.
I hope that when I retire I can still physically backpack! I respect the older generations who still enjoys exploring the outdoors!
After 2 days of 29 miles of backpacking I had come across 17 people on the trail who also realized the amazing summer West Washington was in the middle of!
Day two was successful as all three passes were accomplished with 14 miles logged all done one hour before dark. Jumping into my hammock I quickly fell asleep to the mesmerizing sound of swift Cameron creek.

Cameron Basin looking at Grand Pass

Mount Cameron

Mount Cameron Marmot

Mount Claywood

From the top of Lost Pass with Lost Peak

7.639 ft Mount Mystery (L) with 6,941 ft Little Mystery (R)

Looking north from Gray Wolf Pass

Looking north from Gray Wolf Basin back at where I started the day